Larkin rescue frame manual assembly instructions

Pretty decent rack for the money, it's not the strongest cargo carrier out there but it's really lightweight and one of the better looking ones. No biggie, I don't think I'd put that much anyway. It looks sturdy enough, but I think it says max is 150lbs. The aluminum blended well with my car rack.

I had to dismantle the end part again just to insert those on the groves.Over-all, I am happy with how looked. Turns out those are where you screw them. It helps that the plastic parts where you insert the aluminum rods are actually shaped like the ends of the, uhm, well, aluminum rods.And for pete's sake, do not forget the steel squares!!! I wondered what those are for until I was about ready to put in the brackets. It's good that they did enumerate all the parts and how many there should be in the box, but this is no Ikea where they actually put 'A' on the 'A' part listed.the parts themselves are not labeled.

I then just decided to just look at the pictures. I kind of figured this should have been a 30 mins to an hour assembly, but it went all the way 3 hours because I was so bewildered during the first 30 mins with the instructions. If you do not have the patience, even if you are handy, then forget about this.

Like everyone's complaint, the instructions are so vague you'd rather just look at the picture and figure it out. Nice and looks well uld use a better instruction booklet. (earned my MacGyver with this setup).BTW - Rear plastic corners - L = Driver's side, R = Passenger's side (in USA, reversed for UK, etc.).Interior measures 34.5' x 44' or approx. Test fitted, drove it & it works - NO movement. Made 'boots' for U bolts from bike tire tube, no metal to metal. Basket also sits (slightly) lower on top of the car.Getting anti-skid rubber, furniture pads to stick onto basket cross bars (at drilled holes, both sides) - eliminate the metal to metal when mounting the basket.NO carriage bolt connectors, using square U bolts thru the drilled (basket) crossbars, around the roof rack aero bars (sideways). The basket frame (not the basket cross bars) sits on top of the roof rack cross bars. The brackets simply hold the crossbars in place. Duct Tape to the rescue!Fitting the (basket) cross bars into the metal frame of the basket seems to make the setup inherently STRONGER. Shortening the cross bars (again to fit inside bottom frame) worked, BUT would NOT accommodate the rubber ends (too thick). This should do the job.- PICS to follow, once I get it all together.EDIT - DONE & mounting brackets seem to be OK. Wanted aluminum for weight & rust resistance, rather than steel. I drilled the (basket) cross bar to accept Carriage bolts (head slotted into aero Rhino Rack cross bars, bolts thru the drilled basket cross bars).- Shortened the (basket) cross bars - hack saw would work, but I used a recip saw.- Then I realized the clamps for the basket cross bars were in the way.- I reversed the mounting brackets (turned upside down) to fit the cross bars onto the bottom of the basket (the clamps protrude slightly into the basket, oh well).- This seems to work, though the mounting brackets for the basket cross bars seem to be the weak link.- I'll ratchet strap the basket down to the car cross bars, just to be sure.- the basket will be stored when not in use, NOT a permanent mount on vehicle.- good basket for ~~ $65 (had to purchase some parts for retrofit), as opposed to $250 for another basket. I had to retrofit this, as it was going onto a Rhino Rack aftermarket system on my 2012 Honda CRV.Since I had NO rails (front to back of car) to clamp onto. Reading the previous reviews (& comments) was VERY helpful before & during assembly.Lots of knowledge there.For the price, a very good basket. Lay out the parts, test fit them, before you screw them together.Make sure you have all the hardware, 2 of my M6*10 had NO head slots, had to replace those.Paying this forward w review.

Larkin rescue frame manual assembly instructions